Does Natural Sequence also equate to Natural Progression?

Kiwi · Post by **Kiwi** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 8:12 pm

I'm doing what I call "Natural Sequence 101" because I am only a beginner.
I am finding capeweed which has been slashed several times, is now having to compete with clover (relic of old pasture).
I suspect there must be a natural progression of dominant plant species when a paddock is subjected to this mulching process.
Using this example of capeweed, is there a documented progression which could be used as a guide to show progress under this type of regime? ie, best times/stages to mulch capeweed. What types of plant are likely to fill the niche left by the capeweed and what type of indicative time frames might apply.
Data like this would help "newbies" by providing positive reinforcement by showing progress signs as their pasture adapts to the new system.
Is it too soon to start calling my capeweed "cape fertiliser"?

duane · Post by **duane** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 9:12 pm

Kiwi

The main point in following this advice with capeweed or any other plant is to let the plants finish/complete their lifestyle.

This then allows you to reap the maximum biomass and to get the full benefit of the fact that as these broadleafed plants mature they are doubling their mass every 10 days. This means that in the last 10 days of their lifecycle these plants produce their greatest biomass and hence carbon.

The succession of plants that will follow will change as the fertility levels return and build.

This is the natural sequence.

jenni · Post by **jenni** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 9:04 am

are you finding that slashing the capeweed is helping?i am not convinced about it working out. we have not really seen any result from 2 seasons of capeweed slashing, if anything its worse.when you slash it it doesn't give much mulch what it does give rots and goes sludgy and seems to stop anything growing underneath it.i'm starting to think it might be of more use to put some sort of a spike roller over it?

duane · Post by **duane** » Sat Oct 24, 2009 11:02 am

Jenni

This story of yours has been reported to me by another farmer who found the result of slashing the capeweed similar to yours.

When I mentioned this to Peter his retort was that the capeweed was slashed TOO early......ie before the end of its productive lifecycle thereby limiting the quantity of biomass.

This farmer above is in Victoria. Perhaps we can seek some other experiences????

Stringybark · Post by **Stringybark** » Sun Oct 25, 2009 6:57 pm

I have waited until the cape weed crop has most plants well into flowering. Slashed twice at this stage with excellent results. I have a really good strike of annual rye grass coming up through the capeweed.
I wonder if the moisture content in the immature plant is the reason for the pulpy mush that Jenni talks about. I have noticed the same thing when I've slashed big bulky cape weed that hadn't flowered. My thinking is that the mature plant will have less moisture in it as it starts to flower/decline.

Kiwi · Post by **Kiwi** » Mon Oct 26, 2009 9:32 pm

You guys are a gold mine of info. Yes, the plants were approaching maturity so not too mushy (having active microbes in soil also helps breakdown of mulch).
I normally leave the cape fertilizer until it matures a bit more, but I was trying to accelerate this paddocks mulching to get past the point where nitrate poisoning might be a problem for foals next season. All other paddocks are on the slow cycle, which brings me to my next question. I have several paddocks of native pasture which is seeding.
How long do I leave the seed to mature before topping/slashing the paddocks?
for the record, the local cape fertilizer plants are now starting to brown off ready for summer.

Shirley Henderson · Post by **Shirley Henderson** » Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:39 pm

Seed heads of grasses become brown and papery when finishing their cycle. Seed begins to fall naturally or if you touch it should come loose easily. Seeds can be ripe at different times, if you look at the grasses you will see some seed that looks ripe and other seeds still green and forming. Summer to Autumn, I would expect your best results for perpetuating regrowth but native grasses are not always reliable, The conditions have to be right for them to germinate. If they do not come up the following year, it does not mean your seeds were not ripe, it may be that conditions are not right at the time. Some seeds may not germinate for 5 years. Apparently intermixing introduced and native grass species is the best way to propagate native grasses and guarantee ground cover and pasture in the long run.
Shirley

duane · Post by **duane** » Thu Oct 29, 2009 11:03 am

I checked with Peter re the slushy capeweed query.

He said this 'you may not need to slash capeweed, but YOU can crash graze. But the very clear message with slashing all broad leafed weed is: If you are wanting to restore OM and fertility let the plants develop to their full growing cycle....then slash. This way you will get the greatest benefit.

Slushy CAPEWEED MULCH= SLASHING TOO EARLY!!

gbell · Post by **gbell** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 12:05 pm

duane wrote:their full growing cycle

Including going to seed?

Natural Sequence Farming

Does Natural Sequence also equate to Natural Progression?

Does Natural Sequence also equate to Natural Progression?

ripe grass seed